#2298 $2,200 Sold
CHARL hand-stenciled velvet jacket, 1920s
Fortuny and Gallenga were not the only artists who produced hand-stenciled garments in the early 20th century, although certainly the most famous. In every era, there are creators who have fallen into obscurity due to a caprice of fate. As prices soar for the works of Fortuny and Gallenga, savvy collectors are beginning to research neglected artists and their work.
I believe that CHARL was one such artist, whose creations deserve our respect and approbation. For vintage couture, the piece itself is more important than the label. In 2004 I consulted with a major authority on French couture, who declared that the garment itself speaks louder than the label or provenance.
The jacket is fashioned from sensual claret silk velvet that is hand-stenciled in silver. It is lined with matching silk georgette. The style, open in front, has no closures other than the long scarf ties. The jacket is signed "CHARL" in the stenciling—see the second from the bottom picture.
You can wear it in several ways. You can have the ties knotted in front (picture above). Another way is with the ties flung back over the shoulders (3rd picture down). The full raglan sleeves are pulled up with ruching at the wrist.
Although the stenciled motif (4th picture from the bottom) does not have the historical cachet (nor the price) of a Fortuny, the rich ruby velvet has the opulent luxury that Fortuny so admired in Renaissance fabrics. He termed velvet, "the aristocrat of stuffs."
The condition is excellent and wearable.
It measures: 42" bust and waist, 46" hip, 24" sleeve length, and 32" from the shoulder to the front hem (longer in back).
