#6639 $10,000
Gallenga stenciled velvet cape, 1920s
The textile art of Maria Monaci Gallenga (1880-1944) is often compared to that of Fortuny because they both produced hand-stenciled designs that drew inspiration from the distant past. The patterns of Gallenga, generally larger and less textured than those of Fortuny, often contain exotic birds or beasts. For more Gallenga art currently available see a stenciled chiffon shaw and a stenciled velvet bag.
Gallenga's loyal followers, who frequented her shop in Florence, preferred the mysterious, Gothic quality of her designs. She is best known for medieval and Oriental designs stenciled in shades of silver and gold.
Throughout her career, Gallenga remained true to her original formula for stenciling on silk velvet. She used as many as 9 tones of gold and silver pigment to achieve the desired ombré shading. The metallic pigment does not tarnish or flake off, thanks to a special formula devised by Gallenga's husband, a Professor at the University of Rome.
This superb stenciled cape is an excellent example of the Gallenga style. The wide stenciled border features a magical landscape of stylized plant forms, exotic birds, and mythical beasts. The stenciled border is signed "Maria Monaci Gallenga"—see the picture below.The mesmerizing chartreuse hue of the velvet is unforgettable. The cape is lined with pale green satin.
The fullness of the cape is controlled with ruching across the shoulders. The thickly padded and ruched collar perfectly frames the face. The cape closes in front with ties embellished with Venetian glass beads and braided metallic cord.
Gallenga became an overnight sensation at a theatre opening in New York in 1916. She wore her "medieval" gown, which attracted more attention than the play. Like our fabulous cape, her gown on that fateful night was also stenciled by a miraculous process whereby the pattern appeared to float on a weightless fabric.
The cape was purchased from the collection of Charles Kleibacker, a well known fashion designer and museum curator. His extensive collection focused on unique examples of couture.
The condition is excellent. The lining has been let out at the hem to ensure that the cape hangs properly.
It measures: 52" around the bust area, 74" circumference, and 43 1/2" from the shoulder to the hem.
