#4071 $1,950
Hand-embroidered Kashmir shawl, c.1810
Long rectangular shawls were the key fashion accessory during the Neoclassical period (1790-1820). See the French fashion plate below. The lady is wearing a similar long shawl. A softly draped, colorful shawl, like this one with its exotic pattern, complemented the plain white muslin gowns then in vogue.
The body of the shawl is fashioned from fine red wool twill. The sides and ends are bordered with hand woven panels. The ends are finished with different colored sections pieced together and hand embroidered with boteh and stylized flowers. There is a hand-embroidered signature by the maker.
The boteh, known in the West as the paisley motif, is thought to be a representation of the growing shoot of the date palm. To the ancient Chaldeans (Babylon), the date palm was the tree of life, and the boteh represented its renewal. The symbol became an important element of early Indian textile art and appeared in hand woven Kashmiri shawls of the 17th century.
By the early 18th century, the boteh had evolved into a naturalistic style densely packed with flowers. In the late 18th century, Europeans started importing these expensive shawls. European artists also appropriated the boteh and adapted the motif to embroidery and print designs. This superb period shawl was probably hand embroidered in Persia for the Western market.
Neoclassicism sought to revive the ancient Classical aesthetic. The movement cherished order, symmetry, and simplicity of style. In the decorative arts, Neoclassicism featured austere designs of medallions, urns, and arabesques. What a contrast to the elaborate ornamentation of the Rococo style that preceded Neoclassicism!
The condition is almost excellent. There is a small, well-done mend on one side border.
It measures 9 1/4" wide by 87" long.
