#2360 $2,600 Reserved
Felix beaded velvet reception gown, c.1893
From the late 1860s, Felix was a major trendsetter in Paris. By the 1890s, he was considered as important as Worth; and Felix was known as the most original couturier. He has always been a top name in couture, though nowadays less familiar than others. The Felix customer, including the great star Sarah Bernhardt, prized his dramatic contrasts and dazzling ornamentation. She called him "my poet."
This superb reception gown is an exemplar of the Felix style. The choice of deep midnight blue velvet instead of the more predictable black is just the effect the Felix customer was after. The bodice and skirt fronts both have panels of cream colored pleated satin. The satin is covered with a layer of black silk net lavishly ornamented with faceted jet black beads that sparkle in the light.
The beading pattern has a lively assortment of size and texture. Another notable Felix touch is the use of ivory embroidery to highlight the pattern of curled beading on the velvet.
The skirt is longer and fuller in back, forming a small train. The bodice, which dips to a deep "V" at the center-front, closes with concealed hooks. It is lined with tan taffeta and boned for support. The dramatic three-quarter length sleeves end with flounces of black Chantilly lace.
The midnight blue in the gown is a characteristic Felix effect, using an unanticipated burst of color to heighten the drama of the design, showing that elegance does not have to be timid. On his retirement in 1901, The Queen observed, "At this house, one is always certain of finding the newest and most recherché models..."
This exceptional reception gown by Felix was originally owned by the same lady who owned the Felix beaded jacket currently offered.
The label reads "A. Felix Breveté/Faubourg St-Honoré/Paris".
The condition is very good to excellent. The exterior of the gown is almost perfect, but the taffeta skirt lining, which is beginning to split, needs to be backed for support.
The skirt measures: 32" waist and 38" center-front length.
The bodice measures: 38" bust, 30" waist, 14" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and
19" center-back length.
