#2361 $1,400 Sold
Felix beaded velvet jacket, c.1898
From the late 1860s on, Felix was a major trendsetter in Paris. By the 1890s, the house of Felix was considered as important as the house of Worth, and Felix the most original couturier. The Felix customer, including the great star Sarah Bernhardt, prized his dramatic contrasts and dazzling ornamentation.
This superb jacket is an excellent example of the Felix style. The rich hunter green velvet makes an unforgettable impression. The jacket is trimmed with jet black beads and a large stand-up Pierrot collar of black Chantilly lace. Despite its fidelity to the prevailing mode, this brilliant piece has a theatrical dash.
The shapely jacket is flared in back below the waist. The long front-side panels partially cover the shorter, pointed center panel. The jacket closes in front with concealed hooks and is lined with ivory satin.
Felix' genius was in constantly finding the least predictable way (the daring color combination here) to express the prevailing style, imbuing even his most discreet designs with an air of high drama. He had a unique talent for balancing the engagingly eccentric with common sense in design.
This exceptional jacket was originally owned by the same lady who owned the Felix ball gown currently offered.
The label reads "A. Felix Breveté/Faubourg St-Honoré/Paris".
The condition is almost excellent. The jacket, which only shows gentle wear, is missing a few beads. Also, the lining needs to be mended (bottom picture). I did not do so, as I wanted it to be clear from the picture that the label is original.
It measures: 38" bust, 32" waist, 40" hip, 14" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, 24" sleeve length, 20" center-front length, and 27" from the shoulder to the front hem points.
